Quilting Options

Tonight I'm teaching a class for some basic quilting options.  I thought I would give a run-down of some simple techniques for the beginner.  I think it's always good to see what other people are doing as well, so check out some other posts that are great from Alyssa here and here.  If you really want to go to a fabulous source I suggest Leah Day.  She is so talented and has so many wonderful tutorials/videos.

I decided to categorize some quilting options for you the way my brain works.  Disclaimer - I'm pretty sure your brain works different than mine and that's probably a good thing, but I needed a way to organize my thoughts: (Remember that you can click on any of the pictures to make them larger)

Straight Lines: 

• Stitch in the Ditch- It is just what it sounds like; you sew along the seam of the fabrics, so that the sewing is not seen.  The most common use for this is to stitch around squares and blocks as an outlining tool.  If done right you should really only see it on the back of your quilt.

Notice the outlining of the octagon and center square of the block on the back of the quilt

• Straight-Line Echoing- I've also seen it referred to as Outlining.  You sew a set distance away from the seam (usually 1/4"), and it brings attention to the shape you outline.  You can also do multiple echoing:

• Parallel Lines- Straight lines down the length or width of your quilt.  You can vary the distance or keep it the same distance between lines.  This particular quilt is parallel lines.  It looks wavy, because I used a decorative stitch at it's longest stitch setting, but it was created the same exact way you would make straight lines.

• Perpendicular lines: Straight lines on the diagonal forming diamonds.  Sometimes the lines go in the direction of your blocks and sometimes it's fun to make the diamonds running through the straight, square blocks.

• Straight-lined designs:  You can also create really cool effects simply by using straight lines.  In this case I chose an echoing diamond:

Organic Lines:

• Parallel Organic Lines:  It's the same idea as Parallel straight lines except you use a walking foot and randomly let the line wiggle as you travel down the length of your quilt.  Again, you can vary the space between the lines.  They can be very close together or several inches apart depending on the look you are going for.

• Random Organic Lines:  This quickly became one of my favorites, because it's different every time you do it.  You randomly place lines from edge to edge of the quilt.  I like to arch my lines and make curve shapes for an added effect, but you can also make then wiggly or all straight depending on what you like.  You keep making lines until you like the amount of lines on your quilt.

Free Motion Quilting:
This is where people tend to get crazy nervous.  Up until about 6 months ago I did very little FMQ.  It scared me to death, because I was convinced I would ruin my quilts.  A couple tips that have really helped me. 

1. You need a free motion quilting foot (sometimes called a darning foot).  It doesn't have to be anything fancy, and you can buy a generic one if your machine doesn't come with one.
2. A common misconception is that you have to lower your feed dogs.  It's actually better if you don't and just lower your stitch length to as close to 0 as possible.  When your feed dogs are down your needle punches larger holes in your fabric.
3. There are all kinds of tools out there that you can purchase to help with quilting, but one that I think really helps is to have quilting gloves, so that you have a firmer grip on your quilt and can maneuver it easier.  If you want the whole ultimate package of quilting tools go here, but you can find quilting gloves at places like JoAnns.  
4. Practice is the key - seriously though.  You don't get good at FMQ by sitting and watching other people do it.  I keep all of my extra strips of batting and fabric that I don't particularly like and form my own mini-sandwiches.  I practice using these scraps, so I don't feel like I'm wasting materials.  It's the perfect use for them.
5. I practice on my "sandwich" a little before trying any new design just to make sure my tension is correct on my machine, and then I continue with my FMQ on the desired quilt.  (You don't have to do this, but I find that it keeps me from having to pick out stitches because I realize too late that my thread tension is off).  Play with the settings of thread tension until you find one that works for your machine.
6. When practicing it's often helpful to use a thread that is a high contrast in color from your fabric so you can easily see what you're stitching.

Some really popular designs:  (There are hundreds, so obviously I'm only showing some basic options). 

• Stippling- This is what people generally refer to as a squiggle.  I used to randomly squiggle around on my quilts until I found out there is actually a method to the madness.  I'm not even going to pretend like I can make a better video than Leah, so here is the link to her video that gives a wonderful tutorial on practicing Stippling.

• Loopy Lines-  This is one of my personal favorites, because it can quickly fill a quilt and can easily be adjusted for less density (more space between loops) to make a baby quilt more snugly.  Here is Leah's tutorial on Loopy Lines.

More dense quilting

Less dense quilting

I hope this gets your wheels turning about what you want to do with your quilt.  What's really cool is that there are so many FMQ designs out there to explore and see what works for you.  You can even make an entire quilt with just quilting.  It's a fun experiment to create a wholecloth quilt:

Basting Your Quilt

It's that time again!  2 months ago I gave some beginners tips for learning how to piece together a quilt top.  For starter tips & supply list go here.  4-patch tutorial is here and Pinwheel tutorial is here.

Next Tuesday I'm teaching a beginners quilting class at my church.  If you're in the Columbus area you should come - it's going to be fun!  First thing's first though - before you learn how to baste your quilt (put the 3 layers together) you need to decide which batting to use in the middle of your quilt.  There are a ton of options out there and it can really be confusing which one to buy.  I personally am a Warm & Natural girl, but that's for you to decide.  Sew, Mama, Sew gives a wonderful guide on all the different types of batting.

Some things to think about when choosing batting:
1- The most common thing I hear is that the batting just seems too thin and won't keep them warm.  It's the loft of the batting that determines the warmth not the actual thickness.  Most lap quilts and such are low loft.  It's what I almost always use, because it's a lot easier to work with.  However, if this is going on a bed and you really want a warm quilt you can use high loft batting.  It's more expensive, but well worth it if you want to be toasty roasty.  High loft means the fibers are woven closer together.  Remember- it doesn't refer to the thickness of the batting, so don't base it on how thick it is in connection to warmth.

2- Keep in mind how you are planning to quilt it when choosing batting.  Notice on the instructions of this particular batting that the furthest apart I can top stitch my quilt is 10 inches apart.   Each type of batting has different needs for quilting in order for it to keep shape and not warp or fall apart over time.  Some batting requires stitching as close as 5 inches, so check the label before purchasing it.

Basting Your Quilt:
There are a couple of ways to layer your quilt.  Alyssa at Pile O' Fabric gives a great tutorial on 3 different methods.  It doesn't really matter which method you use as long as you like it and it does a good job of keeping your layers from shifting.  I personally use Pin Basting.  This is the method I will be showing at the quilting class.

If you want to baste along with me during the class you will need to bring:

• Pieced Quilt top
• Quilt Back Fabric (ironed as much as possible) - It should be the size of the quilt top plus a couple inches around for a little wiggle room
• Safety Pins
• Batting (enough to cover your quilt back)

Pinwheel Baby Quilt Top Tutorial

This tutorial is for the slightly more adventurous beginner.  It's honestly not that much harder than the 4-patch, but I won't be giving quite as much detail, so if some things aren't making sense then head back to the other tutorial.  I chose the pinwheel, because there's no reason to be scared of triangles, and they make super cute kid quilts.

This is the quilt top we will be making:  It's final measurements are about 36" x 36."

Fabric Requirements:
Theme fabric (Pink Cupcakes)- 1/3 yd.
Light Fabric (Circles)- 1/3 yd.
Dark Fabric (Brown Cupcakes)- 1/3 yd.
Inner Border (Hot Pink)- 1/4 yd.
Outer Border (Pink Cupcakes)- 3/4 yd. (for a total of 1 1/4 yd.)
Backing- 1 1/4 yd. (not shown, but will be the back of your quilt)
Binding (not shown, but I'll be using the same fabric as Inner Border) 1/3 yd. (for a total of 5/8 yd if you decide to make it the same fabric as the inner border)

 
1- We'll first cut the light and dark fabrics for the pinwheels.  You'll need to cut 2 strips of your light fabric at 5" (remember to line up the selvages and then fold again).  Your strips with be 5" x 42"

2- Cut off the selvages, and then cut 10 squares that are 5" (10 squares equals 5 cuts since your fabric is still folded in half once).

3- Repeat steps 1 & 2 with your dark fabric, so that you have 10 squares that are 5" in each fabric.

4- Next, take each of your light squares, and draw a line diagonally on the back (wrong side of the fabric).  You can use any old pen, because it's not going to remain in your quilt.

5- Layer a light square on top of a dark square right sides of the fabric facing each other (the marked line should be facing up toward you).  Layer all 10 squares.  Pin in place if you're nervous about them shifting.

6- Line up the right of your foot with the line, and sew a scant 1/4."  This means hug the line, because you want your seams to be slightly less than 1/4."

When you get to the end of the side DON'T cut the thread yet.  We are going to chain piece all of our blocks at the same time.  This means that you lift up your presser foot, pull back your block a little and then place your next block in and sew as you did before.  Once all 10 of your blocks have been sewn then you can cut off the thread.  This saves time and thread.

7- Without cutting the triangles apart, flip them all around and sew down the other side of the line (remember to hug the line for a scant 1/4" seam).  Keep a firm grip on them as you sew down the line, so that the other squares attached don't pull it off the line.

 8- Using your sewing scissors cut both threads connecting the squares and then cut down the pen line of each square.  You will have 20 triangles.  See below:

9- Press the seams toward the dark fabric.  You will have 2 little dog ears on each block.  Cut them off with your sewing scissors, so that it is a smooth square again.

Before

After

10- Lay out all of your smaller squares to form 5 pinwheels.  Make sure all of your squares are rotated in the correct direction.

We are going to sew side by side and then top to bottom.  Take the squares on the right and place them on top of the squares on the left, so that right sides are facing each other.  See below:

You are going to be sewing down the right hand side of these blocks, so when you stack these blocks make sure they are all going the same direction, so that you don't accidentally sew the wrong side.  Keep track of which side you're sewing on as you take them to your sewing machine.  I like to place the edge that I will be sewing parallel to my machine, so that I don't get confused.

11- Again, chain piece all of your blocks.  You'll notice that one corner where the triangles meet should interlock with seams touching.  Pin it in place. 

Press the seams open to avoid bulkiness and confusion. 


12-  Lay out your blocks.  Flip the bottom of the block onto the top of it, so that right sides are facing each other. 

You will be sewing along the bottom.  First, line up the center section of seams and pin it in place.  After sewing the blocks, press the seams open.

And wa-lah! You have a pinwheel block!



13- Measure your blocks to determine the size of the smallest block.  Square up all of your blocks to that size.  My blocks are 8 7/8 inches.  You will need to cut 4 theme blocks the same size as your pinwheel blocks.  You should be able to get all 4 blocks from one strip (for me it was 8 7/8" x 42")

 14- Lay out all of your blocks.  You will have 3 rows of 3 blocks.  We are going to assemble the blocks within each row together first.  Take the blocks in the middle and lay them right side down onto the blocks to their left.  See below:


Remember that you are sewing down the right side of the block, so keep track of that side as you stack the 3 rows and take them to your machine.

Once all 3 sets of blocks are sewn, cut your thread and this time you are going to press your seams toward the themed fabric.

15- Lay your blocks back out, and repeat the process by taking the block on the right and placing it on top (right side of fabric facing down) of the middle block.

Chain piece them again and press seams toward the themed fabric.

 16- Now we're going to sew the rows together.   Take the bottom row and flip it up onto the top row (so that it's upside down and right side is facing in).  You will be sewing along the bottom edge.  See below:

This is where pinning is really important.  You want line up the center blocks with seams interlocking so that they touch each other and pin in place on both ends of the middle block.

Sew down the entire bottom edge, and then press the seams open.


17- Repeat the same process with the bottom row, and you have the center of the quilt done.

18-  It's time to sew on the borders.  You will need 4 strips that are 2" wide each from your inner border fabric & 4 strips that are 4 1/2" wide from your outer border fabric.  (Don't forget to cut off the selvages)
 

19- You are going to sew a strip of the inner border along the right and left sides of the quilt first.  The right sides of the fabric should be facing each other, so you will see the quilt top facing up at you.  (If you have a solid colored fabric look closely to see if there is a right side to the fabric.  Sometimes it doesn't matter which side you use).



You will have fabric left over off the edge.  Using either sewing scissors or your rotary cutter you will need to trim the border fabric to be even with the other fabric.

Press the seams toward the border.  

20- Repeat this same process when adding the inner border on the top and bottom of the quilt.


21- Adding the outer borders is done the same exact way we just added the inner borders. Remember to press the seams toward the outer border.


Congratulations - you just completed the quilt top!  I will post the next step on how to layer it together and top stitch the quilt.